This week we finally leave Western Australia after nearly four months of exploring the vast, spectacular W.A state. We cross the border east of Kununurra and find rustic beauty in Keep River National Park and stunning waterfalls and gorges in Nitmiluk National Park in the Katherine area. See more in our Week 17 OzLap video
Keep River National Park golden beauty
Our first taste of Northern Territory was just 20 minutes across the border when we pulled in to Keep River National Park for the night on Monday. 20kms down a terribly corrugated road was the Goorandalng campground tucked in behind a mini Bungle Bungles style rock range where we settled in for the night trying to shelter from the scorching late afternoon sun that bounced off the heated rock walls. We’d lost 1.5 hours due to change of time zone and the sun didn’t set until 7pm and the heat didn’t abate until after midnight. The morning brought some relief and before the sun rose to torch us, we took the two kilometre Goorrandalng walk which was in full shade thanks to the towering Eastern ridge wall. The chatter of early morning birds, the rustle of elephants ear pines and a gentle breeze made this a truly magic morning walk.
Colourful Katherine: Rock art, galleries, thermal springs, waterfalls and gorges from Tuesday 3 – Saturday 7 August
Katherine surprised us with all it had to offer from beautiful lagoons to colourful coffee vans, pristine springs and some beautiful art galleries. Katherine surprised us with all it had to offer from beautiful lagoons to colourful coffee vans, pristine springs and some beautiful art galleries. We stayed just south of town in the big, shady Katherine Holiday Park that backed on to the Low Level Conservation reserve right on the river. We enjoyed the large swimming pool, happy hour Margis and dinner at the Big Fig Tree café in the park. There was also a good bike path into town and it was an easy 1km walk to the Katherine Hot Springs which were a series of interlinked crystal clear 32c pools. While in Katherine we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the food truck on the banks of the thermal springs, dinner at Kumbidgee café on a lagoon 10km north of town and a drink at the Katherine Country Club where we watched the band warming up for their Friday night gig. At the Godinymayin Yijard Art and Culture Centre, we were suitably blown away by Aly de Groot’s exhibition of lost sea treasures painted on unbleached cotton and we also had a wander around the little Saturday craft market snapping up some local squash, pretzels and natural hand sanitiser (a sign of the times!!)
Three things to tick on a visit to Katherine are 1. Enjoy an early morning soak in the Katherine thermal springs (before the crowds) and enjoy breakfast at the food truck afterwards 2. Catch an exhibition or performance at the Godinymayin Yijard Art and Culture Centre 3. Dine outdoors at Kumbidgee Café while the sun sets over the lagoon.
Double delights at Nitmiluk National Park
We explored both the southern and northern ends of the large Nitmiluk National Park that features the famous Katherine Gorge at one end (south) and Edith Falls (North) at the other. At the southern end just 20 minutes out of Katherine we took a cruise through two of the gorges to admire the towering sandstone cliffs and ochre rock art and then hiked the 5km Burawei loop walk to the lookout for jaw-dropping views down to Katherine River. We ventured to the north end of Nitmiluk National Park, 1 hour north of Katherine, where we took the 3km Leliyn loop walk to the top pool for a swim under Edith Falls. There’s a kiosk and campground at Edith Falls but the campground was booked out due to the symphony orchestra performances over the weekend
Three things to tick it Nitmiluk National Park are 1. At the southern end, take a boat cruise down Katherine Gorge (2 hour 2 gorge or 4 hour 4 gorge options) 2. At the southern end hike up to the lookout (part of the Burawei loop walk) ideally close to sunset for jaw dropping views and 3. At the Northern end go to Edith Falls and hike up to the top pool for a swim beneath the falls.
Detour into the Douglas Daly Region for a touch of tranquillity on Saturday 7th – Sunday 8th August
We continued up the Stuart highway from Edith Falls and took Dorat road then Ooloo rd into the Douglas Daly Region for a couple of nights on the Douglas river. This area is heavily planted with Mahogany and Sandalwood plus there’s a few big cattle stations and roaming cows everywhere. The Douglas Daly Tourist Park is spread out along the river (with warning of saltwater crocodiles!) and you can bush camp up the track or stay closer to the pool and café on power (like we did!). We regrouped and re-planned our trip to Darwin (as Melbourne Lockdown #6 cancelled a visit from Jamie’s parents) on our shady site and enjoyed sundowners by the river and the pool.
