Apulia region
We spent 10 days in the charming region of Apulia (Puglia) in early July (along with half the population of the world it seemed) exploring Trani, Bari, Ostuni, Monopoli, Alborabello and Polignano e Mare. The Puglia region stretches down the southeast coast of Italy and is fondly known as the ‘heel of the boot’. And boy does that heel pack a kick when it comes to picture-perfect towns, crystal clear waters and quirky arts and crafts. We were based in Trani (just above Bari) and enjoyed picking our way through these ‘feature’ destinations:
Top little Trani
We had a delightful little apartment, almost brand new, and with life-saving air-conditioning for the hot month of July. There was a little balcony with a view of the sea at the end of the street and a coffee shop and pizza terrace just outside. We were a short walk to the waterfront which stretched left to the busy harbour and Trani’s iconic seafront cathedral dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim and Emperor Frederick II’s castle in 1233 – and to the right to the old Monastero Santa Maria di Colonna and Lido de Colonna. The old town centre, is a charming mediaeval network of streets with plenty of fine architecture, creamy limestone buildings and marble roads. Shopping in Trani is a treat as you have the whole spectrum from boho boutiques to chic shops to the OVS department store and a good selection of up/re-cycled outlets.
Trani Beaches are scattered along the south eastern end of Trani with a few pebbly narrow beaches near town and the big sandy Lido Colonna about 1km east and on the far side of the headland where the big Monasterro Sant Maria di Colonna is parked. Our first foray was down to our local pebble beach which was really just a narrow strip of pebbles that had been thrown there to ‘make a beach’ up against the sea wall. As you walked in to the sea the pebbles dissipated and the base turned to a muddy sand that when stirred up made the water rather milky and less than inviting – still enough to cool off.
We also enjoyed walking east along the promenade peeking in at all the beach clubs, all the way around to the Monastery at the point then a a bit further around and voila the big sandy beach called Spiaggia Libera di Colonna revealed itself. It was absolutely packed by 8.30am each day and I only managed to catch it in its pristine state one morning when I went for a sunrise walk at 6am. It looks like this coastline has been ravaged like many of the coastlines around Australia with evidence of mass erosion trying to be abated by big white limestone rock groins as well as a rim of rocks out to sea to slow down the tides before they hits the sand.
Eating and drinking options in Trani are plentiful. You can enjoy a drink at the waterfront beach clubs at sunset, and a meal afterwards, or at a bistro tucked in to the old town streets and squares or join the crowds at the harbour-front restaurants. We tried all three! Our first night we stumbled across a tiny bar with a sign that called to us saying: “Spritz & chips 5 euro”. We chatted to the lovely owner who told us all about the local Prosecco which they call ‘bubbles’ (like we do in Australia!). We tried the ‘bubbles’ at the Barbayanne beachclub at sunset one night and again in the cool of the Parco Giochi Villa Comunale near the marina one evening. We mostly cooked in our apartment but we did enjoy Fish ‘n Chips at a harbour-front restaurant one night to get amongst the buzz! Like many towns in Italy along the Adriatic coast in summer, the night starts up when the sun goes down and outdoor bars and restaurants are abuzz from 9pm to midnight.
Beach-towns: Monopoli, Polignano e Mare and Porto Ghiacciolo
We had heard that there were some free beaches further south, around Monopoli with crystal clear water and lovely swimming – so we decided to explore. What we didn’t factor in was that all of Europe is on summer holidays in July and that every pebble, patch of sand, sun lounge and inch of water is occupied by 9am each day. Still we visited two beaches worth a look-in (in early June or September). The first was the iconic Polignano e Mare about 1.5 hours south from Trani. We did the shuffle around town to find a car park and found one near the train station. Then we followed the crowds walking down the path, under the aqueduct to the tiny rocky nook of beach that opens out to the water. It was heaving with people but at least there were no paid lounges and umbrellas here so it’s just a matter of squeezing onto a patch of rock wherever you can find it. People also sit on the rock walls of this cove and leap from the cliffs above, so you have to watch out both in and out of the water. We were super glad we’d bought two inflatable rings with us so we could kick off from the rocky shore and float out in the middle where the water was a little cleaner and clearer. It is meant to be a ‘Blue Flag beach’ but it would be hard to keep it clean with all the bodies in there so doubt it keeps its rating in summer. We wandered around the old town above and had lunch and a look in the shops – it is very pretty with its white marble streets but also very hot in July!
The other beach we explored in this area was Porto Ghiacciolo just south of Monopoli. This was another rocky beach with reputably clear water and once again, due to the season and hot weather, it was absolutely packed. You need to park in a paddock down a gravelly dirt road and walk in to the beach where most of it is taken up with paid lounges and umbrellas. It is a mix of sand, gravel and rocks so easier to get in and out of the water but there was literally nowhere to sit for free except in the shallow water! We enjoyed a swim here but it’s really more of a place to pay and sit, eat at the cafes along the rock walls than to sit and swim.
The crown jewel of Puglia: Alberobello
We loved this turret topped Trulli town with its big marble lined central promenade leading off to streets and streets of iconic Trulli houses made from limestone with conical roofs.
They used the corbelled dry-stone prehistoric building technique to make these hut and used stone excavated on site as these were originally temporary field houses for farmers that could be erected quickly and dismantled when they moved on. The collection of 1500 Trulli homes in Alberobello are UNESCO heritage listed as they aer teh biggest collection in the world. The main boulevard is also lovely to walk along and we caught some singers in the park at the top practising for a concert later that night.
Oh-so-white Ostuni
This fortified medieval town is all white! It stands out from afar as it is perched up on a promontory and it’s all white buildings shine like a beacon above the olive grove rocky landscape. We parked in the streets below and walked up to the main Palazza Vescoville, around the labyrinth of white marble alleyways, browsed in the shops, had the obligatory gelati and walked under the Arco Scoppa arch.
Puglia is famous for its ceramic glazed pots and we saw many places selling colourful glazed Pumo. This ceramic artifact represents the bud of the Acanthus flower, which is a symbol of prosperity and fertility. It dates back to the Greek and Roman periods, and its name, Pumo comes from the goddess Pomona, protector of all fruits. The Apulian pumo is placed in pairs on balconies as an auspicious sign for the family, or at the foot of the bed as a symbol of fertility.
The northern Marché region and Cliff-hanging Sirolo
After a week in southern Puglia we drove back up north stopping off in this magic little town perched on 125 m high chalky cliffs in the region of Marché. It was boil you alive hot when we were there and we were frustrated to be able to see the inviting turquoise sea below but not being able to reach it without a 1km steep scramble or a packed tourist bus (see ‘beaches’ section for how to access).
This town has medieval roots, and was fortified in the 13th century. Some of the old arches remain and a bell tower which presides over the main square Piazzale Marino, used to be a defensive tower. There’s also a lovely church dedicated to San Nicola di Bari. But the highlight in Sirolo is the huge terrazzo that runs along the sea side of the square and offers stunning sunset views of the Monte Conero hill to the north from terrazzo del Conero, and views down the coast of the Marche region to the south. The main square comes alive after the sun goes down in summer with live musicians, a magic show for the kids, restaurants fill the square and a market sells jewellery, fine linen, leather bound books and ceramics. Little shady streets stretch out from the square with some fine restaurants and bars. There is also the shady big Parco della Republica where we were lucky enough to watch a dance competition, a little like square-dancing meets ballroom dancing, late one hot July night.
We opted to walk down to the two beaches in Sirolo as we saw there was a big wait for the bus and it was very crowded. It is a steep 1km scramble down to both Spiaggia Urbani (turn right half way down) and a little further to Spiaggio San Michelle (turn left). The walk is on a gravel path through shady pine forests in part and is quite steep so best wear grippy shoes. Spiaggia Urbani is a big, curvy open beach made of sand-gravel-pebble – there’s a lot of paid sunbeds but also quite a bit of public free space to sit. The water is calm and protected and had a little ‘film’ on it (suntan lotion?) when we visited after a hot busy day. Spiaggia di San Michele is a long thin beach with cliffs and pine forests behind and a fine, dusty-gravel surface. this is more wall to wall sunbeds and for the first time in our lives we actually bought two beds and an umbrella for the day as it was oh-so-hot . The water at San Michele is cleaner and it is less crowded and there are a couple of little food huts where you can grab a snack or drinks.
